#1986 suzuki intruder manual#
#1986 suzuki intruder upgrade#

Still times I think I'm in 4th, not 5th & I find myself searching to I'm pretty good at counting gears, but there are I'm usually in 5th gearīetween 35-40 mph. Had, like some of the others in its class. Having to remove the radiator cover to check the coolant level.ĥ Speed gearbox - 6th gear overdrive would have been nice to have No tach - I have found aftermarket ones available for it, & they are My wife bought a 2008 Yamaha 650 V-Star Classic, & even Personal dislikes - there are not too many:īike feels bulky when pushing backwards - weight is not wellĭistributed. That does not have a center stand - a motorcycle jack is a big help & rear wheels are easily removed & installed. This year, also with changing the clutch & front brake fluids. I'llįind out about changing coolant, as I plan on replacing the hoses Pretty easy to maintain - changing engine oil, rear gear oil. Secure, to prevent the exposed axle nut from rubbing through the Plastic cap to put over the rear axle nut & wrap tape over it to One thing I did do on this model, was find a Mid-sized saddlebags with no worry of getting burned from hot pipes Having an exhaust with a pipe on each side, unlike some of the bikesĮquipped with stacked pipes on one side, allows for a nice pair of

#1986 suzuki intruder upgrade#

My intention is to someday, upgrade to an 800 model, which this seat Should I ever put the stock seat back on should I sell this bike, as The plastic pins of the toolbox front that the grommets of the I cut out around the toolbox lock cylinder, & also cut off Suzuki 2010 SUZUKI GSX 1250 FA (7) SUZUKI Intruder M800 (7).

#1986 suzuki intruder manual#

Seat to the toolbox front where it locks with heavy adhesive backed This Official 1986 1987 1988 Suzuki DR200 and SP200 Factory Service Manual provides. Thing I had to alter, was to secure the back rest of this one piece

Luggage rack on it - maybe is why) it is a direct bolt-on. With the slightly higher factory back rest, (Mine, has the small Mustang stated it would not fit my year, but if you have the model I got rid of the factory seat, & put a Mustang Regal Duke on it. Nice handling & riding, Shaft drive is smooth. Suzuki VS700 Intruder 1986, Racing Synthetic Fork and Shock Fluid by Klotz. Klotz Racing Synthetic Fork and Shock Fluid. V-twin engine has plenty of get up & go, very good low end take-off. Crafted to deliver unbeatable levels of quality High grade materials for exceptional performance. Was tight, I settled on this one & took the gamble on buying it onįirst impression & a test ride. Things - the snowflake cast alloy wheels. Maroon, pullback handlebars & one of the rare Man, the difference between myįor a used bike to get back into riding. From its headlight right down to its 60-spokc wheels, IntruderĪnd underneath Intruders heart-thumping good looks Suzuki packed the leanest 45° No other streetbike had ever grabbed their attention like my Intruder. They could see it as soon as I rode my new Suzuki Intruder into town. THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN OUR CRUISER AND THEIRS IS AS Unchanged features, identify by V.I.N.In 1987 it was replaced by the Intruder 750. Claimed horsepower was 54.98 HP (41.0 KW) 7500 RPM. It is more commonly known as the Suzuki Intruder 700. The Suzuki VS 700 was a Four stroke, V-twin, SOHC, 4 valves per cylinder Cruiser motorcycle produced by Suzuki from 1985 to 1987. Rear: Dual coil spring oil damped shocks, 5-way adjustable preload Looking at it in person may be quite different, but that is for you and your experience level to figure out.Four stroke, 45°V-twin, SOHC, 4 valves per cylinder Now, one thing is if it only overheats at stoplights that points to the fan and not thermostat which combined with the statements on electrical issues might be a possibility but regardless of the cause, the overheating in itself can cause issues too.Īgain, not to sound too pessimistic but this one seems to have potential to turn into an albatross when looking at it at face value. Not being pessimistic here but just realistic. To me, the fact there is no key kinda points to most repairs maybe not being %100 thorough, and you might find the bike being a modge podge of 75% completed repairs. And maybe not a grand, just depends on the market. $750 for the bike and when you sell it what is the most you can get? Let's say $1500 but more realistically $1100 in my neck of the woods. If you are buying this to tinker with as therapy that is one thing, but if you are wanting to make money on it here is why I'd pass. Not only the overheating but also electrical issues. I do not know without looking at it, but I think $750 is a tiny bit steep for a 23 year old bike with 40K and problems.